Chris--Ditto on the awesome! I really enjoyed the step-by-step outline of your weathering techniques. The February 2016 RMC and the May 2016 MR each have very good articles on weathering diesels. I'm finishing some FTs and F3s right now and am using some of your methods as well as those from the articles. As soon as the chassis are back from my decoder guy (not always the speediest process) I'll post some shots. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise with us.--Dave

Chris--Forgot to ask about the Testor's Clear Parts cement. Is it put directly on the clear surface of the deflectors which are then pressed against the painted surface of the model?...and it dries with no trace on the clear surface of the deflector? I've used Micro-Mark PSA adhesive around the periphery of the window glazing in my diesels; it doesn't sound as if the Micro-Mark product works in the same way as the Testors. If you or anyone else on the forum have any insight, I'd appreciate the information. Thanks.--Dave

HoboP,Dave...Thanks for the nice comments...glad you found the article informative.I really enjoy sharing my techniques with fellow RDG modelers.

Dave...I apply a light coat of the Testor's Clear to the underside near the edge closest to the side window frames with a microbrush while holding the part with tweezers.I use a light application because the part has to be slid into position,I eyeball it,so the glue will be distributed to the underside of the part...when dried it will be unnoticed.
I used Microscale crystal clear in the past but found it to be too thick and a lot of oozing occurred when the part was applied.To me the Testor's is easier to work with...hope I answered your question.

Yup, question answered. Thanks, Chris--Dave