Happy Memorial Day men and women of the Reading Railroad modeling set. I have a question about painting an old white metal Hobbytown RS-3 kit from the 60's.I completely disassembled it. It is unpainted fortunately. I've cleaned up the flash and am now ready to clean the non-electrical part in a mixture of dish detergent and warm water. My question, which I've eluded so far is, What is the color scheme. Am I to assume Pullman Green or Olive Green or something else. Photos, as you already know, show them a beautiful olive green out of the builders shop. However, over time they look more black than anything else. I plan to use this loco in passenger service so it should stay relatively clean as was the Reading's fleet for the most part. Please help with any suggestions. I'm lost at present and don't want to make a mess of this fine model from the past, brass flywheel drive included. Thanks and have a great weekend. Johnny C., 2nd Trick Operator, Wayne Jct. Tower. I can only fantasize.

From days gone by with Bowser steam engines that I built, I would abrasive blast the boilers and brass detail, I'm going to assume this is not an option by the mention of dish soap. Next, I would spray a coat of Floquil zinc primer on and let sit about 2 days. Third, would be in your case for the Reading, good old Scalecoat I Pullman Green. Now, I thin my paint with lacquer thinner from the hardware store, if you wish to use Scalecoat thinner that is fine. After spraying the topcoat (Pullman Green), off the castings would go to the oven for 15 minutes on the lowest heat setting (260F on my stove) As always, safety first! Ask you spouse before the model baking takes place in the family oven. I would then let everything sit and cool. Lastly, if you decal on a gloss surface then your ready to go, I prefer to apply decals on a flat finish so I add a dull coat. Now, this is what I have done with success, I imagine someone here might be able to chime in with something easier I'm just as curious!

Bill

Bill, your advice to painting is spot on the mark although I am a little confused about decals on a flat surface. General practices are to apply decals on a gloss surface with a clear flat finish sprayed on as the final step. What are your techniques to get good results by applying decals on a flat finish, super strength Solvoset, Future Floor Finish or other solution?

Bill, Thanks for the great advice. My only question is how do I perform an abrasive blast? Johnny C.

An abrasive blaster for models is basically nothing more than a miniature sand blaster. Using a blasting media such as aluminum oxide or baking soda, these tools remove tarnish, paint, and stains from surfaces prior to the application of a primer. Although high end tools are available, possibly the cheapest option is the Air Eraser from Harbor Freight Tools. Just be sure to use personal protective equipment while using such a device! Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine (a free online publication) has all sorts of articles about air erasers and home made blasting cabinets.

If grit blasting is not an option, a tried and true method is a distilled white vinegar bath. I have used this on the cast metal Cary and Hobbytown models. Thirty minutes immersed in the vinegar is a nominal bath time. Do NOT use the dark colored apple vinegar as its higher acidity level more quickly removes trace metals from the metal resulting in a very rough surface. White vinegar will do the same but requires a much longer time; two hours is the longest I have left a cast shell in white vinegar without problem. The bath gives the surface a slight tooth, less than that of aluminum oxide grit. Rinse in distilled water then allow to air dry. Light gray primer is preferable as it does not affect the paint color.
"Exact" color can be discussed to infinity. Paint a sheet of styrene with the light gray primer then apply different mixes (shades) of the green in strips across the sheet. Under the layout room's lighting, view one strip at a time to see which looks correct to you. LNE 401's painting and finishing using Scalecoat paint is what I use on metal, except that decals are applied to a glossy surface then weathering and a flat coat are applied. Be aware that the Kitchen Boss will NOT be happy with the odor coming from "her" oven. <W> Also, a BAKING MODEL sign placed over the oven's controls is helpful. Have had the experience of the Kitchen Boss turning the oven ON to bake with a model still inside cooling down. 375°F does darken paint.