For members who might be interested in this, applying decals on a flat finish.
First off I only use distilled water to remove the decal from the backing, and Walthers Solvaset 100%, and a low humidity day. When I spray a Floquil or Polly Scale paint that is an acceptable finish, Scalecoat paints I "flatten" with Testors dullcote cut with lacquer thinner 50/50. I use 35 psi to apply all coatings, I found this pressure atomizes the paint to almost dry when it hits the model.
Now, the "idea" of solvaset is to get decals to snuggle down on the surface. Imagine trying to gets the decal edges to "disappear" on a smooth finish like plate glass? Where can the decal "snuggle" down in that type of setting? Now, a flat finish will yield some "tooth" under a microscope, but that is just enough surface imperfection for solvaset to do it's magic.... "snuggle" the decal down and eliminate that annoying line around the perimeter of the decal being applied.
I don't apply a puddle of solvaset, more like brush on a thin layer to set the decal into. If you get it wrong flood the area with water, no problems. I also use a super fine paint brush to apply the solvaset. You will see how fast this truly evaporates, and apply more solvaset with the lightest of touch not to mar the decal.
If done this way, you will not get any silvering underneath the decal. At this point I apply many super thin layers of dull mixed (50/50 as stated above) with a few drops (not acrylics) of a base color red to "blend" in the decal, essentially toning down the brightness of a white decal. These many thin passes do the last needed trick to truly look like the decal was "painted on in the shops"
For those on the site who have seen some of my equipment can attest first hand this method works.

Bill

I agree with Bill about decaling on a dull surface. I have found out though that some decals, Micro-scale, Rail Graphics ,Highball Graphics, Circus City Decal,etc. Walthers Solva-set will damage them, I use Micro-scale, micro-sol in the blue bottle,for them and Solva-set for the last pass on the decals.

I tend to agree. I've watched various utube videos on decaling and have listened to other modelers' comments. Micro-scale Micro-Sol on the surface before applying the decal and Solva-Set afterwards on top of decal to settle it down. Thank you all for your comments and suggestions Johnny C, Wayne Jct. Towerman, 2nd Trick Operator.

I've also heard of modelers using white glue under decals to prevent the silvering in these situations. I've not done it myself so have no first hand experience.--Dave

As the painting subject continues.... I don't know if anyone on the site belongs to the Steam Era Freight Car Group on Yahoo. Any how, Eric Hansmann mentioned an interesting subject, Future Floor Polish, and its decal application properties on the "Resin Car Works" blog. For those who like to decal on a gloss surface, this read will be time well spent, you won't be disappointed!

Bill