Ron - Your points regarding photo studys of each particular model are very well taken. Both Alco and Baldwin had varying details as each series of locomotives evolved through the years.

I hadn't noticed the roof differences until you pointed them out. The photos in Tom's Locomotive Reference bear out your comments.

There was no rhyme or reason for the variations other than the different phases of VO's the RDG purchased. My thoughts are, they new how many they wanted rebuilt based on funds. They sent the ones that were getting ready for major overhauling. Hence, the variations in models.
This brings us back to doing the research on the model you want to build. Another for instance is, the access doors under the cab. If you look again, 2712 didn't have a access door at the bottom of the cab on the left. As everyone follow's this article, they will find by research, all these minor detail differences for their own builds. It really does make for interesting model to have on your roster.

So moving on with this build, the latest VO’s from Bowser have the upgraded fuel tanks. I haven’t really looked at them closely as they do appear to be much nicer. But I’m fine with the original style fuel tanks. I probably would have found a reason to redo the newer style anyway.

To bring this area to life, I will begin by detailing the air tanks. First, I cut away the piping flush to the tanks. Next I drilled a # 79 hole through the center of where those pipes where. These will be pilot holes for the replacement lines. The next process is to remove the cast tank straps. I want to leave the tank supports, strap connection and moisture trap at the bottom of the tank intact.

To remove the straps without removing any of those details, I used a sharp #17 chisel blade and gently cut downwards of the underside of the tank supports. I cut about half way so I didn't crack the support. It will make it easier to remove the cast strap away from the support. Then I began to slowly shave away the upper portion of the strap by cutting towards the support. With the strap flush to the tank, I repeated the above steps, but only cut downwards to the connecting point of the tank and support. I continued shaving the upper part of that strap until it was flush with the tank. This opens this area up real nice and adds depth to the tank.

For the bottom half of the strap, I used the chisel blade and cut into the strap at the corner meeting place above the bolt. You do have to be more careful removing this portion of the strap so you don’t cut off the strap connection.

Next, I want to reduce the thickness of the tank supports to .018. I used a sanding block and 320 grit. I sanded the top of the support down until I reached that thickness, I cleaned up the support edges with a razor knife.

I also noticed that the handrails bend down some right before they connect to the cab. on the one that I built from athearn units, I did not do this. guess I will have to go back and re-examine what I need to update on mine.

Looking at the picture of the prototype, this is the appearance I ‘m duplicating. This is the same tank set up on the 1200m’s. Sorry for the blur, off day taking detail shots.




Next I use 400 grit sandpaper and sand smooth the tank of any strap and mold lines. When all traces of the straps have been sanded away, I used 600 grit and sanded the tank smooth.