I'm starting to think that there is not one part on the Kato unit that you didn't change or upgrade. Nice work.

Thanks Bill, This is what I like to do. Like the old saying,It's not everyone's cup of tea. My explanation of the project and the pics to give a visual, take more time than the build itself. But, this is the thing I like most about the web as a host to do things like this. There's no editing or skipped photo's like you get in the magazines. It's straight forward and if anyone has questions, you get a fairly quick answer.

After the end caps had a chance to set up, I trim off the excess styrene to the outside edge of the tank and the fly wheel curvature. I re-apply more cement if needed to the end caps. Next on the list is to fit the fuel tank to the frame. The fuel tank will not slip into position on the cast ledge of the motor housing. The reason for this is, there’s no give or spread in the tank halves now that it’s glued together. With a file, I remove enough material from the inside opening of the fuel tank, until it fits snug in place without forcing it on.


To start detailing the tank, I use Cannon 2156 fuel tank detailing set, DW 197 fuel tank brackets and DW 305 drain / vent pipes. I start by marking the locations on both sides for the fuel sight glass and the fuel fillers. I measured .230 from the end caps and marked that location for the fuel fillers. I then drilled the holes at the top of the slope for the Cannon fuel fillers. For the sight glass, I measured and marked .550 from the end cap also. Next I placed the fuel fillers in the holes and made my adjustments on how the fillers sat on top of the tank. Being happy with the fit, I glued them in place with CA. Lastly; I used CA to glue the sight glasses in their location.
While the fuel details dry a little, I cleaned up the DW tank brackets. I didn't use the Cannon brackets even though they are much nicer than the DW’s. These were mixed in with an Ebay auction and I just wanted to use them up. When these are all cleaned up, I attached mine using Barge cement. If you don’t have Barge cement you can use CA for this. I center the brackets between the tank slopes and flush to the top of the tank. I set the tank aside to let the glue set up. If you use Barge cement, this has to sit overnight.


When the brackets had a chance to cure, I carve out the tank brackets to fit around the flywheel belly. This has to be done so the fuel tank sits flush to the bottom of the frame. Gently, start by cutting away the metal around the flywheel curvature on the fuel tank. If you take too much off at a shot, you will pull the brackets off the tank. So take small slices and don’t be in a hurry. When I get close enough to the tank, I gently smooth off the curvature with a half round file matching the curves on the tank.
Next, I take the drain pipes and clean them up of any flash. I used the set for non-dash 2’s. I then drilled the holes needed for the DW drain pipes and used CA to glue them in. After the drain pipes set up, it’s time to fit the fuel tank on the frame.



Next, I have to make some mods to get the fuel tank to fit over the frame rail with the drain pipes in place. What I do is place the fuel tank onto the frame until the pipes touch the frame rail. I mark where the drain pipes touch the channel ledges. I shave flush the upper and lower channel ledges of the frame rail to match the length of the pipes. I shave off enough of the ledge so there is no interference with the drain pipes sliding up. You still have to make minor bending adjustments to the drain pipes to slide over the frame rail.


Now that the fuel tank fits and everything is honky dory, I continue with detailing the rear of the tank. I used Cannons crash bar from the detail kit and glued that to the bottom of the tank with liquid cement. I then took Cannons “T” vent (crankcase vent) and marked the mounting hole location in the center of the tank and drilled the holes for mounting. On The Kato model, you can’t use the whole vent because of the flywheel belly. So I clipped the pipe just below the elbow. With the fuel tank in place, I test fit the “T” pipe to make sure it will fit under the frame. After fitting, I glue that in place with CA.
Now to finish up the fuel tank, there’s two more drain pipes to add. I’ll start with the rear pipe on the right side. Prototypically, the drain pipe sits about a foot and a half from the fuel tank. Unfortunately, this is hard to model. You have to jump through hoops to secure the drain pipe to the frame. The pipe on the prototype runs across the bottom of the frame and curves back towards the crankcase vent pipe. From what I seen, the pipe is held on by clamps and has no other support or channels like on the dash 2 series. So on the model; it can get easily knocked off through handling. So I chose to attach the pipe to the tank. For that drain pipe I used .030 brass rod and made my bends to fit.


For the left side of the tank, the drain pipe is a simple run down from the frame. This pipe is attached to the fuel tank. I used .022 brass rod for that. I attached both pipes with CA. With the tank detailing complete, I can move back to the frame work.

I have an Overland brass model of an RDG SD45. I think your's has more detail plus you have the satisfaction of knowing you're doing it yourself. Really nice! I can't wait to see the finished product.--Dave

Thanks Dave, I will be wraping this project up soon.

Dave:

Looks like EMD followed your model

Beautiful work.