Here is a build anyone can do with a little desire to capture the true appearance of Readings SD45. The model I used for this build is a factory painted Kato in Reading colors. We all know these are great running engines, so there’s no need to get into all that. The body itself was done very well from Kato. But to make this a true Reading Prototype, you need to extend the cab. I will cover this upgrade as well as all the other detail enhancements I made to the model. Below is a pic of the model used.


Factory painted Kato’s are a little tough to strip. You can strip these models in 91% alcohol. The alcohol does not dry out or damage the shell like some other model strippers do. The best model stripper that was made and is no longer available was Chameleon. I never had a problem stripping paint from a Kato with Chameleon. In the alcohol, it does take time to get the paint removed. It doesn't come off overnight. I soaked my shell long enough to remove the lettering. I will blast mine later with baking soda just to make sure my new paint has some tooth to adhere to. If you plan on blasting these, it does take a little work to get the shells clean. I just chose a different route. Do what works for you.

To begin, remove the handrails. Next, remove the body from the deck and frame. Remove all grab irons, horn and anything else that can come off. I will be replacing all the body details. If you want to re-use these you can, just put them in a safe place so they’re not lost. When I’m keeping factory details, I place them all in small clear plastic zip lock bags.
Now, for those who just want to upgrade the cab, were going to start there. This really is not that difficult. It’s just allot of steps to make it complete. To keep this build as easy as possible, I’m going to use the Kato cab. But you will also need a Cannon cab for parts. You can use either the TC-1501 or 1502.
First thing you need to do is carefully cut away the number boards on the Kato cab.

I used flush cutters until I got close to the cab itself. I saved the headlight area for last. Using a sharp #17 chisel blade, remove the rest of the number board until pretty much flush with the cab. You want to leave some material on for sanding a smooth surface. Take your time with this process; thin cuts are better than large gouging cuts that can damage the rest of the work area.

When that was done, I then cut away the headlight using my nippers and finish it off with my chisel blade. There is a method to my madness here. It all has to do with taking to much off at one time.

Next, you want to clean up the area with a sanding stick or a fine file.

I’m going to share a pic of the sanding tool I use.

This tool was a great find and very handy for doing small areas so you’re not boogering up the rest of the project. I’m always looking for tools to make my life easier. You can never have enough tools in your arsenal. The link is below where I found these.
umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_120

I have two Proto 45 undecs on order so I will be following this build with much interest.

I started to do an extended cab on a kato sd45 about 10 years ago it some how got set aside. Jim Six did an artical on extending the cab on a PC sd35 i think, in an old issue of Model Railroading. I think he replaced the cab with a thin shell cannon cab. I will be following your upgrade with intrest. Thanks dan!

I did a PRSL GP-38 from an article in Model Railroader some years back.
it would also work on the RDG SD-45.

Hi Chris! I have several Proto SD45's. The detail and accuracy on them are great. I already started one of them. But that build is more in depth than this. I might post that build also after this as a follow up. I'm using an all Cannon cab plus on that one.

Hi Dan, For some reason I don't remember that article? I'll have to look into that. But, I don't seem to recall PC having any extended cabs on their SD's. PRSL had extended cabs on their GP38's as stated by t1nut. One of those ex PRSL units is being rebuilt by the SMS in NJ. I have some nice shots of that unit. Maybe that was what you were thinking of? Anyway, thanks for the response and I hope you enjoy the build.