I agree with Wowak, its not too hard and with eliminating the walk way, I think that the same reason I am preferring to start with less and less. Your engines look great by the way, I did see some shots of them when the site was down being bored on the internet at wok.

For the 0-6-0 back head I'll try to get shots up this weekend. Work is rather hectic right now I just need to upload them to flickr but, I went with a fully insulated feel. Being exposed to the elements I'd have to do some research on how much it was exposed. Most of the Canadian engines I have been around were fully covered even with an end cab for cold weather running. Details are 2 fire doors I think precision scale company (I get a lot parts at shows and don't always have all the labels) a cal scale gauge and a water glass I put in for the heck of it I picked up. If you are doing insolation and washer plugs, to make them look a little more correct make sure the are recessed a little.

That's high praise coming from you, Casey! Honestly it was seeing your work that convinced me I could do what I'm doing. Sadly scale K4s are popular and expensive in O, otherwise I'd be replicating your G3 in O next.

In O scale I'm not sure how readily available boxpok drivers are. When I was looking to do one that was the first thing to figure out on a G-3 get something I can put a boxpok center driver in and have it work. Luckily mantua made both styles for the same frame, the other option was figuring it out with bowser parts. I did a semi streamlined G-2 first, a little easier and probably cheaper not having to find a feed water heater. Theres a couple different styles too with different tenders and how much they felt like covering, then the really odd unstreamlined 117 with a G-3 welded tender I saw randomly in a video once. The old site had pictures of 202 I did, again I need some time to upload more stuff, should have thought of it earlier, oh well.

Casey, What did you use for decals on your G-3 kit bash?
I'm working on an unpainted G-3 and want to get the decaling correct. I'm stuck on what would be the correct height of the cab numbers and the tender lettering.

For most of my projects I used Champion steam sets, with Champion stripes. Some I got when they were still in business, anymore I always just pick them up as I see them at shows. Would be a good set to make maybe from the site since no one is really producing them anymore. To do the 0-6-0 I was going to get the microscale F unit set since its close.

For letter sizes I used the biggest numbers for the cab and the next size down for the tender back which I think is about the size of cab numbers for pullman green diesels, maybe smaller. The stripes were just lines that I cut rounded edges on the tips not perfect but at a slight distance look ok.

I'd love to see the site make RDG steam decals in O, I've been using Microscale F unit sets for cab numbers, Pullman Green Hood unit decals for tender lettering, and generic railroad Roman sets for everything else, and they're all slightly different shades of yellow.