Turboboost910 wrote:
Not that fragile. I can't imagine they're any more delicate than a highly detailed brass model. Most of my "styrene" piping is the Plastistruct stuff that has a wire core, so it's fairly sturdy. The rest of the stuff I make as solid as possible, so they're sturdy. And where necessary, I'll fake stuff up (like the rear footboards on the B4a.... those hangars shouldn't be wedge shaped, they should be ~1 scale inch steel bar.)

It's not that hard to judge how strong something is going to be, and the ultimate test is if I can handle it while I'm working on it without breaking stuff off. If/when I do, I rework it to make it sturdier. So far I've been lucky enough to find all the weak points before paint.

And to be fair, it'a a LOT easier to do intricate details in O-scale compared to N!

Projects are normally sturdy, I use super glue for important structures then got use to it, so I use it through out a project anymore. The thing I find hard at times is figuring out how to get new shells bolted back on, some are just held on by friction.

But I agree N scale would be difficult just with using smaller flimsier base styrene with no room for error literally.

that 0-6-0 is gorgeous! I saw you applied rivets to the smokebox, whats your technique if you don't mind me asking?

I didn't do any on the 0-6-0 its all from the original model, but when I do need to I have used the decal strips which work well (I-9 tender) I actually embossed them on the L-10 tender I did with that tool that looks like a cowboy spur on a handle, not knowing the real name of it. On the M-1 I did for the front where the bell was on the original shell I put dots of super glue letting surface tension keep the shape and let is fully dry, when painted it looks pretty good.

I finally found the photos of my damaged K-1 after a real fire when a candle left burning on my TV top started the tender (an old AHM berkshire tender) on fire and burned the cab. I was attempting to rebuild the cab but I put it on hold to look for a better drive train. If you notice a lot of brass details were used. I lengthend the boiler. I removed the sand dome air pumps and other details. Then I filled the holes with plastic and green squadrand putty, sanded and added the details and straps. relocated walkways, air tanks & pumps, piping out of bent brass wire, new bigger stack and longer brass ladders, and more. The rear underframe was scratch built and a modified brass trail truck was added. The last set of drivers was attached to the bachman frame cutting the first plastic lower frame between 2nd & third driver and the second between the 1st & 2nd driver then lapped over the old cast metal split frame to support it. The main drive rod was lenthened by soldering two together then fileing the solder till it looked good. What was I thinking!! Even though I measured the distances between holes and drilled them at the right distance. Still occasionally the wheels would bind. Thus the standstill. So it sits in the round house.

It looks nice!!!Are you thinking Bachmann USRA 2-10-2 for a decent mech??? Might have to worry about valve gear/crosshead issues.. but overall.. compared to finding (and affording) an old NJ Custom Brass K-1...Now use that theory and apply to a modernized N-1!!!! (I'll cheer anyone who wants to tackle it. If Casey hasn't tried, maybe someone else can?)