I haven't really thought about it. I do projects for the fun and the challenge learning a skill, and benefits of not relying on companies to make what I want.

Maybe I'll through some paint on it and get pictures up, I need to get decals to really finish it but they always look way better with a coat of paint.

all I can say is... WOW!

The 0-6-0c is looking very nice. I'll be watching to see the finished model. Casy your ability to scratch build steam engine bodies is as good as you ability to plan the step by step process of making these models. I stumble through kitbashes. In some I am luckey and thing work out. In others, most of them, it is a long process. I'll keep watching your results and I hope, learning.
frank

While at a hobby store getting some styrene for my current project taking most of my attention I picked up a decal sheet of the "green diesels" they happened to have which had what I needed to finish this little engine.

Also while looking up the number range, I didn't realize there was only 10 B-8s including a and b versions. (1316-1318 B-8a and 1393-1399 B-8b) The point being I'm guessing they were built with the walschaerts valve gear, but oh well it will still look good as is.

This is a bit of an update, but more revisiting an old project. Learning a lot since originally completed I have become not too happy with the project. To be more accurate it needs the Walshert's valve gear and a bigger, mostly fatter boiler. Nothing will be done to the tender unless I need to fudge the connection plug a bit since I think the boiler will get a little longer. The round rubber band traction tire is also replaced with bullfrog snot.

So in the rebuild first is the running gear. Used parts is eccentric cranks from an IHC 4-6-2, and a couple rods from the parts box that happened to fit, saving a little time not scratch making them. I was going to make a yoke/link hanger from styrene but decided to just notch out the original one and build from that.



The new hanger was built after some picture studying. First was the squaring off the original vertical, then the actual hanger pieces went on the rear of the yoke really just eyeballing size and position, making sure they slope down the like the prototype. The secondary hanger in the front from the valve rods is glued just to the yoke and not the cylinders and is pretty sturdy being made from .040 except the inside long piece.





I made the link and eccentric rod next and test fitted them. The link is made using one from a round house kit I use as a pattern and the eccentric rod is 3/4" hole to hole and then shaped around that.



The rest was figured out and built all at once. As I have done in the past I made a little pad with a hole to be glued to the bottom of the cross head but not glued until the rods are riveted together. The black rods are left over from an IHC 2-10-2 now the K-1. The scratch rod is 11/16" hole to hole then there is a little spacer going from the black rod up to the mounting pin seen in the middle of the half circle. The rivet just below the white plastic is holding 3 pieces. The rod to the slide valve is a separate L shaped piece glued to the inside support above. since it it not really visible I didn't bother to have it move, this also saves a lot of binding headaches.



Once one side was done it was a matter of copying what I did.



Even though the shell will be replaced, you can see the new valve gear will help hide the worm gear that was pretty open before, though the motor is not in place in the image.

The new boiler tube is made on a 3/4" dowel rod, still small but much bigger then the mantua boiler.




As expected the firebox did get longer as it was installed. I also salvaged the original plastic mounts to the frame from the old shell which was also salvaged from in the first place.



So lots of work later, all the same techniques from other builds it sits here.