Hi Todd, Are you referring to Cannon?

Trucks


To get started, even though I test ran the SD45; I take the trucks and free roll them on a section of track to make sure there are no binds as individuals. For the most part, Kato models are generally free of lubes unless you buy them pre-owned. Then you need to clean the old lube off. After free rolling, I disassemble the trucks separating the housings and removing the gears. I re-assemble the housings so I can grit blast these and the frames. This removes the shininess and gives some tooth for paint and gluing parts. After grit blasting, I scrub them in soapy water and rinse. I let these dry and prepare to add details.

Before starting the detailing of the side frames, take a look at the prototype picture of the Reading SD45 below.


The Readings side frames were Flexicoil C2HL’s, meaning 1 single high mount brake cylinder and 1 lower one. The high brake cylinder was located only on one side of each truck. So there was one on the left front and one on the right rear. Kato’s frames were tooled to represent the Flexicoil C2L, meaning all low mounted cylinders. These are a little different from the style truck the Reading used, and it’s not just the location of the brake cylinder that’s different. The brake slides (or actuators) are located just below the bearing cap on the C2HL frame. On the Kato C2L, the slides are located at the bottom of the wheel journals. Fact is, there were several variations for the Flexicoil truck in the early years. The C2HL can be modeled and I’ve done them before. But they’re a bit of a pain to do on the Kato frames because they are made of Delrin. So I’m not going to rebuild these frames to match the prototype. I’m going to let that detail go and just modify the frames enough to give them the look. Below is a pic of brake mods to the truck frame.


I start by nipping away the back side of the cylinder to be removed. I only nip away about half of what’s sticking out past the slide. I then use a #17 blade and shave the brake cylinder close to the slide


Then I take the frame and place it on a cutting mat at the edge of my bench. I set the frame on an angle, this way I can remove the rest of the brake cylinder on a flat surface. I use a fresh #17 blade and carefully cut down on the outside of the cylinder until I cut flush to the brake slide. Looking at the pic below, I just set the frame on a block of wood for the photo.


My next cut down will be next to the frame and slice my way back to the slide. If you crack the slide, use bonding primer and Micro Bond from Microscale to glue it back together. Repeat for the other side frame. I clean the slides up with a file.

Next I’m going to use a pair of Athearn’s brake cylinders from an SD set. I cleaned up the mold lines on the cylinder and shaved away the tip flat where the airline goes in. I then drill a #80 hole for the air line. I also drill a #53 hole in the side frame for the brake cylinder. You do have to scrape a little plastic off the pointed ends of the brake cylinders mounting post. I removed just enough material to give the brake cylinder a snug fit in the hole. Also, at bottom of the brake cylinder, I cut away the molded on mounting bolts so the brake cylinder sits flush on the frame. On top of the frame where the cylinders actuator arm goes through, there’s a little section that has to be shaved off so it doesn't interfere with the actuator.

To glue the brake cylinders on, I’m using the Micro bond system from Microscale. To bond plastic to Delrin, you need to use the primer in that system. Now I’m going to bend the air lines for the brake cylinders. I use .012 brass wire and Athabasca lift rings as pipe straps.

To bend the piping, I have a copied SD45 drawing in HO scale with the low/high brake cylinders. I placed the wire on top of the drawing and make my bends using flat pliers and tweezers. I used round pliers to make the loop bends. While doing the bends, I always check my work against the Kato frames. I don’t bend the lines to go into the lower cylinders. I will do this after the lines are set in place on the frame.

Using the smallest eye bolts from Athabasca, I drilled out the centers with a #80 drill bit. These are fine enough to give the appearance of pipe straps. Below is the pic for the locations for the eye bolts and while you’re at it, using the same bit, drill a hole through the side of the bottom brake cylinder for the air line. The locations are white dots.


For the all cylinders down frame, below the pic shows the locations of the pipe straps and the holes to be drilled for the air lines. You’ll notice there is a strap that will hang off the bottom of the frame to secure the hanging pipe. That location is pointed out and should be drilled on a slight angle inwards from the bottom edge.


When I drilled the holes for the lower brake cylinders, they were drilled on an angle through the center of the cylinders. The arrows indicate the angle I used. If you need to, you can drill a #79 hole instead for the brake cylinders. This will give you some wiggle room for attaching the airlines to the cylinders.

Next, I start threading the air lines with the Athabasca eye bolts. For the frames with the high cylinder, I attached the lines to those cylinders first. I then set the two eye bolts on the other end where the low mount cylinder is, and work my way back to the high cylinder. I make adjustments to how the line sits across the frame and that it’s at the proper location for the lower cylinder. I use thin CA to glue the lines in place at the eye bolts and upper brake cylinder. Don’t forget to pull the eye bolt out a little and add glue to those. Now, I take and bend the air line for the lower cylinder to fit in the hole that was drilled for it.

For the frames with the low cylinders, I thread the line first with the eye bolts. I set the single eye bolt that is located under the frame. I then move up and over to set the others. Once again I check my alignment to the cylinders, making any finale adjustments and glue those down. Then I bend the lines for the cylinders and glue them down also. Honestly, it does take a little practice to bend these lines and set them place. As long as I've been bending lines, I still screw them up from time to time. But, it’s very rewarding to look at the finished part.

To finish the truck frames, on the lead left truck I’m going to drill a hole through the center of the bearing for the DW 285 speed recorder. I also shave the bearing cap down flush to the bolt heads. To attach the main part of the speed recorder, I first nip off half the mounting post so it doesn't interfere with the wheel set. I use the bonding system for this. While that’s drying, I’m going add sand lines to the truck frames. I’m going to drill a #80 hole straight through the back of each truck frame that faces the fuel tank. The holes to be drilled are located at the bottom inside edge of each frame. I didn't do the front of the frame due to clearance on tight radius. To mount the sand lines, I use DA eye bolts. I cut the eye bolts to a length of .116.


I add CA to each end of the eye bolts and push through the holes until the post pops out the back flush. I then dab a little more CA on the outside of the bolts also. Now I use bulb wire for the sand lines. I don’t remember where I got this; it came in a small bulk package. The wire is .015 thick. I like it because it’s flexible. I cut four pieces of wire and strip a little casing off the ends. Using CA, I did the stripped ends into the CA and place that end into the DA eyelet until the casing just slides in. I let each frame dry before forming the bends of the sand lines.

I now use tweezers to help form my bends. I prime inside the tops of the frames for the bonding system. I then finish the form of the lines and glue them to the side frames. I cut off any access. For the speed recorder, I drill a #80 hole where the cable will go in. I use .012 brass wire and bend the cable. I glue that down with CA. The truck frames are complete.

Ron, once again Wow! The level of detail on this model is really something.

If you want to know more about truck types, check out:

EMD SD 6 wheel trucks - Data

Click on “Diesel Data”, then “EMD”, then “SD Flexicoil 6 Wheel Trucks”

Some may want to check out the information on Blomberg trucks too.

I applaud your efforts Mark.In today's RTR world of model railroading,I find it refreshing to watch a master modeler sharing and explaining his work.

Thanks Bill and Chris. Your comments are appreciated.

Thanks Mark for your input.