Thanks Turbo!

Next, I’m going to grit blast the front pilots and around the steps and deck. I’m removing the barricade stripes so they don’t show through after painting. For the deck, I’m just removing enough of the Kato paint to dull it for better paint adhesion. I wash the deck after blasting to remove any grit. Once dry, I’ll continue by replacing the steps and start adding the under frame details.

Well I made a small boo boo. Fortunately, I’m able to correct the mistake without any complications. I had forgotten that the Reading in its frugal ways to save a small buck, never used the double Salem air Filter system like most of the other roads did. They just used the larger filter. So I will not be adding the smaller Salem filter. Now that small hole I drilled will not go to waste. The air pipe that is supposed to be attached to that air filter is still runs through that same location. I will use the hole for a hanger.

To replace the steps, I start by carefully nipping away the steps in the wells. I leave just enough of the old steps in tact so the new steps have something to be glued too. When cutting the steps away, I start in the middle of the step and work my way out. You don’t want to cut large chunks of the step out. The Kato plastic is a little brittle and could crack and damage the step well. What I do is, I take two small nips going back to the kick plate and then two angular cuts at the center. This relieves some of the outward pressure while cutting. Then I cut the center of the kick plate and start removing the rest of the step. Next, I then take a sharp knife and slice away the rest of the kick plate in back of the step, leaving a nice clean resting spot for the new steps. For the top step, I don’t remove the backing plate. It doesn't interfere with the new step.


I then remove the A-line steps #29238 from their trees. I file any burrs left from cutting and then bend the step edges. Before gluing down the steps, I always test fit to make sure they will seat properly. I use barge Cement to glue these down. I don’t use CA, it just does not hold up very well. I haven’t tried gluing the steps down with the Microscale system. I think the results would eventually be the same. You need an adhesive that will be a little pliable. And not Walthers goo either. When the steps are all in place, I let the steps cure overnight.

Next I’m going to finish detailing the fuel cutoff switches. First thing I do is mark the center of the switch plate with a pointer. Next I drill a #80 hole straight through the side sill of the deck. Now I’m going to take a #70 drill and make a couple of twists, just enough to cut through the plate and side sill. I don’t drill through the side sill; I just drill out enough material for depth. Next I cut two pieces of .012 brass rod long enough to go through the deck. I take one end of the rod and gently file a flat on it. This will be the button side. I then push the rod through the hole until it is just past the plate. I use CA and glue the rod from inside the deck. I cut the rod flush to the inside of the side sill.

Brian Banna from the 6Axlepwr.com website showed how he did a Reading SD45 cab by using a Cannon & Co. thin wall cab.

www.6axlepwr.com/