This was a project that I was working on for about a year. It started out as a stock pre-painted Bowser model and I wanted to do a simple detail and weather job and it grew into a monster. Under frame is rebuilt along with the trucks, fuel tank and I replaced the air tanks. Made a new brake chain guide and coupler pockets. Added missing details and replaced the oversized grabs with scale grabs. Weathered her up and there she sits. I did the clinic on this model at the Modelers meet.

Really nice,the weathering is enough to really make the model pop in particular the roof and short hood.

Great weathering Job. The right amount for a Alco. Its the one thing I am always afraid I over do. Once I weathered a GP-30 went nuts on an overspray of floquil grimey black. Before it totally dried I took a gum eraser pencil Like I used in Ink drafting in the 70's. I was able to erase all the flat areas. The grime stuck in all the cracks between the doors etc. Turned out to be the best weathering I ever did.
It seems like every job turns in to a monster, once you start looking close at the details and matching to photos.
Again looks so good I think I can Hear the rumbling idle.

I saw a Mike Confalone video on weathering - to get the darkening in the seams between the door panels, etc., he did a thin wash of black oil paint with turpentine, and used a very small brush to dab it in the seam. Capillary action spread the wash through the area. He also did this to great effect on radiator grills, etc.

The video is available on Trainmasters.TV, the subscription video service of Model Railroad Hobbyist. It is a pay service, $48/yr, but it is WELL worth the money. I highly recommend it for anyone looking to increase their modeling knowledge...

Tom

Great work Ron.

Did you have a powerpoint presentation with your clinic or a handout? If so, can you post a copy here, I think it would be a great addition to this thread.

Thanks, Mark

Thanks Dan and Mark.

I probably won't post the actual clinic because it is a brief showing and explanation. My intentions are to show a little more construction than the clinic could show and to add a little more verbiage for clarification probably after the holidays.

My 2 cents on weathering, I personally don't weather my models the same way each every time. I use various weathering resources depending on the look I'm trying to achieve. I use chalks and washes and apply them using different methods. I mentioned this in my clinic that for the best results for bringing out the door details especially on the Y&G units, I use a dirty brown wash. It adds a more natural weathering look to the model. I use black or dark gray on the Pullman green and the new green models only. But I use those black colors sparingly, it can overpower your model. I always study various pictures of the model to create the weathering effects I want. Allot of times I remove the weathering before it dries if I don't like it and start over.

We all have different approaches to weathering and it's one of the toughest practices to describe. And I for one don't consider myself an expert. I'm constantly learning this art. If you really want to learn how to weather besides practicing on junk bodies, follow what the military modelers are doing. Those guys have these techniques down to a science and really not a difficult science to follow. You can watch and learn allot from their YouTube channels because they love to share their art. I've been watching these guys for years and learned a ton, so following those modelers can really get you to expand your weathering horizons.