Chris, the handrails must take a lot of patience. Great work!

Todd...Thanks.I hope it helps others with their modeling efforts.

Bill...Yes,the key is to take your time.A good plan is to have a second set on hand,just in case.

Ok...I continued on with the first phase of my weathering.I like the affects it produces and for me its easier to control then air brushing or applying wash.Pictured are the items I use.

My goal is to illustrate the accumulation of road grime and shadows around the doors,vents,etc.etc.So,I start with the mechanical pencil and carefully and lightly trace around all the molded on details.This proccess takes awhile...find a nice comfortable chair and go to town.What I like is if you mess up or don't like the results simply erase it.Now,this produces nice straight lined dirt and we all know that's not the way it works.
The 2nd part is to blend the lead in using micro brushes.Simply go over the areas traced with rubbing motions,follow the contours of the molded on detail.Again,if your not happy erase.
NOTE;earlier I mentioned tracing lightly,the reason is to not apply a heavy application of lead and you don't want to damage the paint.Also,sray the unit down with dullcoat before using the pencil.
And wear a nitril glove on your non-writing hand so not to leave finger prints from handling the unit.

Let's start with the cab.Engineer's side I traced and blended around everything.Remember the decal was messed up so I added the rusted area to cover it up.Do what you want for this,add a splash of color maybe a vandal threw and smashed a jar of paint...whatever.

Its hard to see in this front view but the upper area around the light,number boards,roof line has a nice coating from blending.Also notice above the steps where the paint has been rubbed off from the tips of the crewman's shoes.Of course,there's less rubed of on the engineer's side.

A look at the left side.

A view of the rear.


Here are pics of the completed body.I also applied some grimey black weathering powder to all the grill areas and blended it in with the dry brush.



In this view you could see I installed the number boards.I painted both parts(entirely)engine black before installation.This helps limit, if not completely, the leakage of light from around the edges.I will apply decals a little later.


Front



Pilots and walkway.I applied the weathering powder to the top of the walkway and the pilots.



Here's an overall view.At this point NO weathering has been applied to the roof area except for the tracing process and painting the grills.My next step will be adding and painting the details.


One thing I forgot to mention.After I was happy with the looks I sealed everything with dullcoat.If your following this is my third application of the spray.Also,at this point the weathering of this unit is not complete.The final weathing will be completed when the model is fully assembled.

wow... who would have thought the secret was a lead pencil! I think I can do this now... at least it seems not so hard anymore... cool!

She's going to be s beaut!

Barry...that's my so called secret.With factory painted models like the Bowser 630's I leave all parts in place,i.e. handrails.This really adds to the time it takes to apply the lead because the handrails kind of get in the way.I leave them on because they tend to get damaged if you try removing them.Bowsers first release of the RDG units had railings that were alot more brittle compared to their most recent RDG units.

5310...thanks we're in the home stretch now.